As part of our jaunt to North Devon to visit RHS Rosemoor we also decided to complete another section of the South West Coast path.
As previously mentioned in my post regarding walking this path in Cornwall the South West Coast Path is the UK’s longest and best-loved National Trail. Stretching 630 miles from Minehead in Somerset it runs along the coastline of Exmoor, then North Devon and into Cornwall. It follows the entire coastline of Cornwall, goes across the mouth of the River Tamar and continues on to Devon. After running along the south coast of Devon it then follows the Dorset coastline before finally ending at Poole Harbour.
Wherever you live in the world, if you love hiking, enjoy coastal walks and the associated flora and fauna think about this challenge. You don’t have to do the full 630 miles, just choose a section that meets your needs, I promise you won’t regret it! southwestcoastpath.org.uk has all the details you need to start planning.
This section of the path from Woolacombe to Saunton covers between eight and nine miles and three beautiful beaches. It’s fairly easy going and follows the beautiful coastline although we diversified both at Woolacombe and Saunton in order to walk along the sand. This walk also forms part of the Tarka Trail, a 180 mile figure eight loop that explores North Devon.
We set off from the Watersmeet Hotel and followed The Esplanade with magnificent views out to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s weird I never seem to be able to look out on an ocean without trying to work out where I would land up if I set off from the coastline in front of me in a boat and just kept going. I’m guessing the Caribbean?
The coastal path, itself runs just below the Esplanade on the right and along the top of Combesgate Beach. The Barricane Beach Cafe soon comes into view. This little cafe is open every day but is well known for it’s curry nights. Check it out on Tripadvisor where it has a five star review status from nearly 1000 patrons.
The great expanse of Woolacombe beach is soon laid out before us and we reach the Woolacombe D-Day Memorial.
Unveiled in May 1992 the memorial consists of two tall irregular shape stones placed next to each other standing on a circular area made of bricks. One of the stones is rough-hewn and the other is smooth which holds five metal plaques that are inscribed in English in incised lettering. These shores were used to train American soldiers in preparation for the final invasion of Normandy and, as a consequence, The Assault Training Centre moved its headquarters from Grosvenor Square in London to Woolacombe along with many thousands of troops, landing craft and tanks.
It’s not long after this that the path branches off to the right and along Challacombe Hill Road before following Marine Drive on the right along the top of the beach.
We, however, remain on the sand and fortunately we have chosen a day where the rain stays away but it was still quite windy and I have to admit I have to admire the brave souls who actually decide to fulfil their holiday dreams and sit on the beach. Personally as part of the venture down onto the sands the attraction for me is watching the surfers. This is one of those sports that fascinates me. I’ve never been courageous enough to try it, mainly because I’m not that good a swimmer and the thought of being swept out to sea is my worse nightmare! However watching other people ride the waves does entrance me.
Continuing along the beach you get a glimpse of Lundy Island off in the distance. Lundy is owned by the National Trust and managed by the Landmark Trust. The island is three miles in length and only half-a-mile wide, but with it’s 4000 years of human habitation it offers an array of things to do for day-trippers. With a backdrop of stunning natural rugged beauty it is a walker’s paradise. Visitors can board a ship at either Bideford or Ifracombe with the crossing taking about two hours. They sail across at least three times a week and you can have between four and six hours to explore the island depending on the day you choose to travel.
Woolacombe Beach blends into Putsborough Beach and it is at this point we walk up into the car park to rejoin the actual coastal path. Shortly afterwards the path branches off along the headland to the right towards Baggy Point. This area owned by the National Trust is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its geological features and is quite exposed. We found the path around the headland easy to follow and continued our walk onto Moor Lane where the NT Baggy Point car park is and we were soon on our way down into Croyde Bay. Turning right onto Beach Road we follow the coast path downhill onto Croyde Beach where it crosses right across the sand.
As you reach the end of the beach the path skirts around Simons House.
Anyone who has an interest in the programme “Grand Designs” will recognise this as the house that spiralled out of all control financially after the purchasers Edward and Hazel Short put their life savings into building their fantasy home on the coast. They had hoped it would change their lives for the better and give their two children a fabulous childhood. However more than twelve years later, the luxury home has been relisted for sale, once again, at the knockdown price of £5.5m and the couple’s marriage is over. Millionaire Mr Short is still paying off some of the money he borrowed for the ambitious project thought to have cost over £10m!
The coastal path skirts the main road (B3231) from this point onwards until you descend into Saunton Sands Car Park. As I stand on the beach looking back towards whence we have come I spot a small house tucked away above the main skyline. It looks like just the sort of place I would love to stay in, looking out onto the beach and the ocean beyond. Somewhere I could stay in quiet solitude and just read and write for a couple of a days. It certainly begins to trigger a desire for me to investigate further!
Saunton Beach isn’t very busy but I love the beautifully coloured beach huts just sitting there invitingly in the hope that someone will hire one for a day. There is a separate wooden kiosk just on the beach where you can make enquiries and if you glance directly behind you from here you will also spot the sea sauna hut? I’m not sure I would want to be in a sauna on a beach particularly when the English summer hits and the weather is hot and muggy!
Even though my legs are aching and I certainly won’t need any rocking to sleep this evening I’m glad we made the effort to complete this walk.
NB:
This is my second post about walking the South West Coast Path, why not check out the first one in Cornwall.
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A Midlife Adventure 
Great read again and very tempting!
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