We are approaching the end of our trip to Antigua and decided, in advance of our arrival on the island, to book a boat tour to Bird’s Nest Island. I had researched the various tours on offer and we chose to use this company which departed from Parham Harbour.
Parham
On the day in question we drove 10 miles across the island from our accommodation, which took about 40 minutes, to the north east to reach our embarkation point.
The village of Parham, itself, feels like the kind of place that doesn’t try too hard—and doesn’t need to. It’s widely considered the island’s oldest settlement, and you can sense that history not in grand monuments, but in the easy rhythm of daily life: fishing boats rocking gently in the harbour, roads that seem to wander rather than hurry, brightly painted homes that peek out from behind flowering trees and very much a laid back Caribbean lifestyle.
The village sits on the edge of a calm, mangrove-lined inlet that looks almost like nature decided to build a safe haven for both boats and daydreams. The water here isn’t the dramatic turquoise you’ll find on postcards—it’s softer, muddier, more lived-in. And that’s part of its charm. This is where locals mend nets, where birds pick their way through the shallows, and where time seems to stretch just a little longer than usual.
There appears to be a strong sense of community—people greet each other by name and are not adverse to greeting you also as I discovered when I was trying to park safely and securely on the roadside. Only to discover later that they have a car park adjacent to where the boat is tethered in preparation for our journey.
In a world that often moves too fast, Parham offers a gentle suggestion: slow down, look around, and maybe—just maybe—don’t even check the time.
Travelling to the Island
Climbing aboard the vessel we meet our fellow travellers, a husband and wife from the Channel Islands along with Captain Brian and his first mate “Scooby”!
We head out past Jumby Bay Island (also known as Long Island), located two miles off the the main island, this exclusive 300-acre private resort and residential community is famous for its private villas, white-sand beaches, and high-profile clientele.
Our voyage takes us through North Sound Islands and Mangrove coastlines which offer boats protection from invading hurricanes.
The journey there is half the charm as our boat skims over water so clear you can see coral gardens and darting fish beneath you. There’s a tiny speck on the horizon that doesn’t look like much at first. No bustling docks, no beach bars, no rows of sun loungers—just a low, green island surrounded by impossibly clear water. That’s Bird Island and as the engine cuts and the boat slows, the loudest sounds become the wind, the gentle slap of waves, and—true to the island’s name—the chatter of seabirds circling overhead like they’re debating your arrival.
Stepping onto the island feels a bit like accidentally discovering a secret the Caribbean forgot to advertise. The sand is pale and soft, the kind that squeaks faintly underfoot, and the sea shifts through shades of blue that don’t quite seem real. There’s a laid-back, untouched feel here accentuated by the young man casually mending his parasail on the beach—there’s no infrastructure, no rush, just nature quietly getting on with things.
The Island Itself
Bird Island is small enough that you can stroll across it in minutes, but that’s not the point! Brian is in the process of opening up the toilet/changing room, setting up tables and chairs ready for lunch and generally ensuring we feel welcome with a nice cold drink.
If you wander a little inland (and “inland” here is a generous term), you’ll notice the scrubby vegetation and rocky patches where birds nest and rest. Depending on the season, you might spot pelicans gliding in with surprising grace or small flocks of tropical birds hopping about like they own the place—which, to be fair, they do.
Included in the tour package is an island hike, which Scooby gives us access to by using the company’s keys to open the gate to climb the grand stairs which stretch up into the highlands. As he leads us along this canopied trail we are told a little of the history of the island and more about its flora and fauna.
When you reach the top of the island there are great views back across the smaller islands and down to the beach.
Whilst everyone else is keen to get a glimpse of the harmless, beautiful and endangered racer snake, that lives nowhere else in the world but on the islands of Antigua’s Northern coast, I’m more than happy if it doesn’t show its face!
From the Hilltop trail in the winter months (from December through May) there is an added attraction. Whales can sometimes be seen as they migrate down from waters off New England and Canada. You will probably need a good pair of binoculars, plenty of patience and maybe a little bit of luck to see them.
Birds of many varieties also nest on the island throughout the year and Hawksbill and Green Turtles are commonly seen in the bays so I’m very much looking forward to the next stage of the trip.
But before we move on, and as we return back down onto the beach, we are reminded that school children are brought here from the mainland to partake in an authentic nature lesson. Low and behold one of the teachers has picked up a racer snake and is handing it around to her young charges. With permission I took a photograph of this young man!
Snorkelling
The company provide snorkelling gear for all those wishing to take part. I, personally, brought my full faced mask and snorkel with me but turned down the opportunity to wear some flippers. I’m still learning and they just seemed so cumbersome.
Brian accompanies us, as just us two ladies slip into the water, alongside him and make our way out away from the beach. Suddenly you’re in another world—coral formations, curious fish, and the kind of visibility that makes you forget how deep you are. It’s peaceful, almost meditative, until you stop for a minute and realise you’re in the middle of the Caribbean Sea.
We are blessed with several turtle sightings, a couple of rays whose sleek black bodies float to the surface in front of us and fish of all colours and varieties. It’s quite an awe inspiring experience for me as a newby to this sport but my lack of flippers mean that Brian has to give me a rope to hang onto so I can keep up!
Meanwhile our two hubbies are relaxing on the beach, chilling and in the case of the Channel island guest enjoying some rum punch!
Lunch
Lunch is also included in the package and when we return to the beach the traditional Antiguan fare is all ready and laid out for us to help ourselves buffet style.
There is some marvellous barbeque chicken with green salad, macaroni pie and coleslaw with local banana bread for dessert and soft drinks, juice, water and rum punch to wash it down with.
It’s then time to get changed and think about heading back.
Bird Island is special but it isn’t any single dramatic feature—it’s the simplicity. There’s something quietly luxurious about being somewhere so unspoiled, where your main decisions are whether to swim, sunbathe, or do absolutely nothing at all. Time stretches out here in the nicest way, and even a short visit feels like a proper escape.
Final thoughts……
By the time you leave, salt on your skin and sand in your bag (despite your best efforts), you might find you are already thinking about how to come back. Not for excitement or spectacle—but for that rare, easy feeling of having briefly stepped off the map.
Have I inspired you to perhaps include Antigua in your Caribbean itinerary?
Let me know your thoughts and comments ……………
A Midlife Adventure 