Granada -A View to Remember

In modern day society it’s sometimes hard not to be a tourist. As I’ve mentioned before all the key sights want you to book tickets in advance for a specific day/time.
It started during Covid so numbers of entry could be limited and a 2 meter distance could, therefore, be guaranteed between strangers when visiting. When we finally left the Covid era, continuing this pattern of entry ensures that numbers are still limited and places are not over run by the ever increasing numbers of tourists wishing to visit.
However the cynic in me also feels that this allows for staffing numbers to be predicted and I’m guessing, as a result, these numbers have often been cut. If you know how many visitors you are having in each hour organising staff rotas becomes prescriptive rather than haphazard guesswork.

In this new world it’s lovely sometimes just to throw away the guidebook and plans and to take time out to wander at will and that’s what we did on our second day in Granada. We left our hotel and browsed the shops along Calle Elvira before arriving at the Plaza Nueva. This is actually the oldest square in Granada and around the square are the Royal Chancellery and the House of Pisa.
From here we headed past the Plaza de Santa Ana and along Carrera del Darros following the river. This is the river that supplied water to the Alhambra via aqueducts.
The road soon starts to narrow but it’s nice to feel the cobble streets underfoot. At times like this my imagination reaches back in time and I become aware of all those who have trodden these streets before me. There is barely enough room for the small local bus to get through which reminds me that these streets were made for horses and carts and not modern day transportation.

Several small stone bridges cross over the river and we pass the El Banuelo, preserved remains of 11th century baths, and outside is a black shield shaped sign which explains in both Spanish and English historical information about the site. For some reason that we haven’t been able to ascertain at the bottom of the narrative is the number 85 and an earphone sign.
It soon becomes apparent that all places of interest have these signs posted nearby. I’m guessing you can do some sort of self guided tour and the numbers refer to an audioguide you can download on your phone. Maybe check it out at the local tourism office if you are visiting.

We reach another small plaza and take a breather whilst photographing the glimpse we have of the Alhambra Palace up on the hill to our right.
As we continue the streets on the left like Calle Zafra and Calle Gloria are old and narrow curving upwards away from us, inviting exploration. We resist the temptation and follow Calle Chapiz as it curves around a bend to the left.

The hill becomes a little steeper but we follow it onwards. Just past the Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestro Salvador (Church of our Saviour) we bear off to the left into Calle Panaderos following a signpost towards Plaza Larga. We had previously read this was where some of the old city walls remained and decided to take a look.
Reaching Plaza Largo we found a small market which was beginning to close down and in the far left we finally spotted a stone archway which would take us through the old wall.

We found ourselves at the back of the Church of San Nicolas. As we came around the side of the church there before us was an unforgettable panorama. We had chanced upon the Mirador de San Nicolas.
I honestly could not believe my eyes. The whole of the Alhambra Palace was laid out before me with the beautiful snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada nestled behind. Suddenly everything I had read and seen the day before made sense. The Palace dominated the skyline, leaving everything below in its wake.
There are not many views in the world that you see and know are going to stay in your memory forever but this is one of them. It probably ranks in my top three!
Finding a vacant stone seat and ignoring the crowds I settle down and just stare in front of me. I feel at peace.

NB:

This is my second post about our stay in Granada on our tour around Spain. Granada is a beautifully unique city. Why not read my first post and then catch up on our journey around Western Europe?