Touring Western Europe -Spain -Barcelona Has Sold It’s Soul!

I would normally be sat here writing about our adventures in Barcelona rather than an opinion piece.
We had arrived here by train from Valencia on Monday and settled into our Air BnB late afternoon with a view of La Sagrada Familia from our balcony.
I guess this is still an adventure but it’s hard to know how to write a positive piece when for me it is so marred by the reality. I know my opinion is going to be contentious. I’m sure there are people who have been here and loved it. I, however, am slightly at a loss.

The city, itself, is the second largest in Spain with 1.6 million people living within the city limits but put it into google and the first thing that comes up is FC Barcelona, what does that say about it? Is the football team it’s saving grace?

I came here expecting so much more. This is the capital city of the Catalan region of Spain. An area that historically has been proud of its heritage to the point that it has looked to seek independence from Spain itself.
My first impression is of dirt and grime. Every city we have visited thus far has kept their “old town” streets clean with daily cleansing but not Barcelona. This city is being spoilt by tourism. Suddenly it’s like we are back in London again with litter on the streets and pollution discoloured buildings but with the added ingredient of just being totally underwhelmed despite the fact it dates back to pre Roman times.

Las Ramblas
This is the description I was given by my Guide book in advance of our visit:
“To stroll through this bustling district is to walk through the history and culture of one of the world’s most exciting urban centres. Celebrated poet Federico Garcia Lorca once described it as “the only street in the world which I wish would never end” . Famous for its throbbing urban energy, this colourful avenue and tree-lined walkway are one of the busiest areas in the city so it’s not surprising that it is constantly thronged by tourists.”

The only part of that narrative that is true is the latter part. Yes it is full of tourists but why?
Something is definitely missing because I didn’t experience any atmosphere. I was expecting Covent Garden in London but in avenue format. With pavement cafes, independent traders selling flowers, souvenir sellers, street performers, human statues and benches with people watching the world go by.
Did Covid have an adverse effect on trade which never recovered? Have the police clamped down on the street performers to such an extent as they are no longer welcome?
Las Ramblas is as dried up as the old river bed it was built on. There are many pavement restauranteurs plying for your trade charging exorbitant prices for food and drink, a few trading stands selling souvenirs and flowers and some cartoon artists down the far end near the port but that is it! There is no excitement, no atmosphere and it just seemed pointless to me.

Mercat de la Boqueria
This market housed in an airy and glass structure is about halfway down Las Ramblas on the right hand side if you are walking towards the port. My guide book quotes it as “the place that the city’s top chefs come to buy their ingredients”.
Are you sure?
Maybe in it’s heyday that was the case but now around 50% of the stalls sell food purely devised and aimed at the tourists. Pre made fruit smoothies, pre prepared fruit selections in plastic cups, ready prepared meals that the stall holder can throw in a microwave and zap on reheat before exchanging for tourist cash, Barcelona burritos, chocolate fruit on sticks and so it goes on.
Don’t get me wrong I can understand how this has happened. The market opened in 1836 selling a wide range of local products including fish, meat, vegetables and fruit but ultimately traders need to make money particularly since Covid hit and so they give up their traditions and trade it in for tourist food.
To describe this as the country’s most well known market is probably true but NEVER describe it as the country’s best market because it is definitely not. It’s a market that has sold its soul to commercialism.

The Cathedral
This is described as ‘Barcelona’s Gothic gem, at the spiritual and physical heart of the city. The cloisters are listed as one of the best parts with orange and medlar trees, palm trees, a mossy green fountain and the thirteen geese kept as the cathedral’s tradition to honour St Eulalia’s life.
The reality is that the building is so affected by pollution it has to be systematically cleaned which no doubt costs a fortune. I managed to get a picture which shows the variation.

The interior compared to many other cathedrals we have visited on this tour lacks the wow factor but this is a typical situation where an ecclesiastical building is being held up as a tourist destination when in fact it is purely what it set out to be, a church of god.

The garden in the cloister looks bedraggled and in desperate need of water and as for the geese? I just felt sorry for them in their stone floor enclosure with no grass and only cabbage/lettuce leaves to remind them of what green food actually is and a dirty, smelly, equally green pond to swim around in. Sorry but I’m sure St Eulalia would agree with me, let these poor birds go free.

The Beach
Barceloneta beach is the nearest to the city centre and accessible from the end of Las Ramblas. A statue of Christopher Columbus pointing out to sea sits atop the Monument a Colon marking the end of Las Ramblas itself. From here it’s about a 15 minute walk into the centre of Barceloneta.
Traditionally this was the fisherman’s quarter and this still looks like a very working class neighbourhood with apartment buildings strewn with balconies full of washing hung out to dry alongside children’s toys and other stored items.
In front of the market is a plaza where locals congregate to play table tennis, young aspiring Messi’s play a game of footie with their mates and the older generation chat with friends and watch the world go by.
Also on this square, to one end, are two or three restaurants overflowing with tourists sipping wine by the glass whilst enjoying tapas and other traditional Spanish fayre.
It’s a huge contradiction and one I couldn’t fail to notice when I stopped on a bench here for a breather.

We reached the beach early afternoon. It is nothing like the beaches you see all around Spain. This is probably because it is manmade. The city built the beach for the Olympics back in 1992 creating around two miles of sand.
It’s the start of Easter week and even though the temperature is still in the low 70’s it is rammed. Not only is the sand full of people but so is the boardwalk! It is nearly at the point where you are queuing up to walk.
We have just left Valencia with it’s lengthy avenue bordering the beach allowing visitors to walk, cycle and skate and I’d go back there tomorrow rather than face this heaving mass of humanity.

According to Google, 27million people come to Barcelona every year – about 16 times more than its standing population.

I cannot help but conclude that this is a city that has given up its heart and soul in favour of tourism.

I’m sure during Covid when the streets were empty and the beach was clear, many local Barcelona inhabitants took pleasure in having their city back and no doubt wish their Government would stop selling their identity in exchange for the tourist dollar!

NB:

This is part eleven in my series of posts about our tour of Western Europe. Why not read the previous posts and then follow us on our journey as we continue to explore this lovely part of the world?