Hay-on-Wye: Exploring the Town of Books

Last week I wrote a quick introduction to Wales as a foreword to some of the adventures we have been having as we explore this fascinating country to the west of England. Our first destination was Hay-on-Wye.

Leaving home mid morning we headed north via Gloucester and Ross-on-Wye and in just under 2 hours we had driven across the invisible border and into the county of Powys and arrived in the small but vibrant, famous market town of Hay-on-Wye.

Known globally as the “Town of Books,” it features over 20 second-hand and specialised bookshops. Both my husband and I spend a fair chunk of our time reading and so this was a place that had sat on my wish list to visit for some time.

Parking on Oxford Street we exited the car park and started our exploration at the castle less than a 5 minute walk away.

Hay Castle & Tearooms:
Walking in through the gateway we are immediately met with a large homemade book stall for visitors to browse. There are no staff, no till, just an honesty box. Visitors are invited to browse the shelves and then place their money in the box. It has been one of Hay-on-Wye’s best-known quirks since the 1960s and is part of the town’s “Town of Books” heritage. Although the Hay Castle Trust is exploring “tap and pay” options to bring this 1960s curio into the 21st century. But what an introduction to this bookish town!

Located in the heart of the town the castle is a beautifully restored medieval fortress dating back to the late 12th century. Once a Norman stronghold and later a Jacobean mansion, it reopened to the public in 2022 as a cultural centre celebrating the town’s literary heritage.

Having purposely arrived at lunchtime and read about the on site tearooms in advance we wander up the magnificent stairway and make our way inside.

As directed we wait to be seated and were offered a selection of tables to choose from and decide to sit by the large windows that overlook the lawn and flood the café with natural light. Having perused the menu, I chose a sun blushed tomato, hummus and avocado toastie whilst my husband opted for the chorizo, mozzarella, oregano and sun blushed tomato version and we shared some fries.
The food arrived well presented and hot. It was so tasty that we both chose a dessert afterwards. There was a unique ambiance to the place as if we were sitting amidst real history, it felt lovely and somehow special to be eating there. I can’t really explain but we both remarked upon it.

Exiting the cafe feeling thoroughly sated and somewhat spoilt we took ourselves off into town to explore. Everywhere you look there are bookshops, some specialise in specific genres whilst others carry general stock. Many of the larger bookshops are open throughout most of the year and, during the summer, some stay open into the evening.

We managed to take a rather circuitous route, allowing us to walk past the majority of them.

Hay-on-Wye Booksellers:

This first shop we came upon specialises in second-hand, out-of-print, and collectible books, with shelves packed across multiple rooms and subjects ranging from literature and history to travel, art, and local Welsh interest. The atmosphere is delightfully old-fashioned—less curated than some of the newer shops, and all the better for it if you enjoy the thrill of discovering an unexpected treasure.

The Clock Tower and Poetry Bookshop:

Built in 1881 for £600, the clock tower stands at the intersection of Broad Street and Lion Street and is a key feature of the “Town of Books. In the foreground is the Poetry Bookshop. Hidden just off Lion Street, The Poetry Bookshop is a Hay-on-Wye institution dedicated exclusively to this genre since 1979. Renowned for its remarkable collection of new, second-hand, and antiquarian poetry books, it offers a peaceful, atmospheric space that perfectly captures the town’s literary soul.

Richard Booth’s Bookshop:

Richard Booth’s Bookshop is the iconic bookshop that helped make Hay-on-Wye famous as the world’s first “Book Town.” 
Founded in 1962 by the visionary bookseller Richard Booth, the landmark shop originally served as a commercial centre for agricultural supplies before being transformed into a bookshop. Remnants of its past are reflected in the storefront which features distinctive decorative tiles depicting livestock.
It occupies a large three-storey building on Lion Street and is famous for being the largest secondhand bookshop in town. Packed with new, second-hand, and rare antiquarian books across almost every imaginable subject it is more than just a bookshop, it is a cultural institution that captures the eccentric, literary spirit of Hay-on-Wye and remains one of the town’s must-visit attractions.

Gay on Wye:

A welcoming independent bookshop on Lion Street dedicated to LGBTQ+ literature, queer history and contemporary writing. Its thoughtfully curated shelves make it an interesting addition to Hay-on-Wye’s already remarkable collection of specialist bookshops.

The Book Passage:

The Book Passage is a narrow, atmospheric alleyway that runs beside Addyman Books on Lion Street which leads to the shop’s famous £1 book room. It is one of the most photographed spots in the town, with books lining the walls and creating the feeling of walking through a literary tunnel.
As the last stop on our walking tour of the town, it perfectly captures the quirky, treasure-hunting spirit of Hay-on-Wye, where every corner seems to hide another shelf of literary discoveries. 

And after wandering around all those bookshops, did we come away with armfuls of books? Surprisingly, no! Perhaps the real joy was simply discovering how much there was to browse

Worth Noting:
Although we came to Hay-on-Wye for the books but the town is equally rewarding for riverside
walks, exploring the historic castle, independent galleries, markets, and outdoor adventures on the River Wye.

Final Thoughts:
Hay-on-Wye turned out to be far more than just a collection of bookshops. Yes, the literary heritage is everywhere you look, but what really stayed with me was the atmosphere—the honesty book stall at the castle, the beautiful tearooms, the independent businesses, and the sense that the whole town celebrates curiosity and creativity. It’s the sort of place that encourages you to slow down, wander without a plan, and enjoy the simple pleasure of discovering something unexpected.

If you’ve ever visited Hay-on-Wye, I’d love to know which bookshop was your favourite or what hidden gem we should look out for next time. If you enjoyed this post, please give it a like and leave a comment below—it really helps support the blog and I always enjoy reading about your own adventures.