Discovering the Beauty of Essaouira’s Medina and Harbour

As we dipped our toes into Morocco in order to decide whether this was a country that we would want to explore further it was important for us to venture outside of Marrakech itself. We decided to take a road trip with Said, the Manager of our Riad, to the picturesque seaside port and town of Essoiura. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its 18th century medina, fortified ramparts and bustling fishing harbour.

The Journey:
We set off in Said’s car early on our last day, which was a Saturday, and as he navigated his way out of the city of Marrakech we soon realised that he was open to chatting and was a great ambassador for his home country. I knew, therefore, that this was going to be an ideal opportunity to gather more of a perspective of Morocco itself, where to visit if we came back and maybe where also to avoid.

Essaouira graces Morocco’s Atlantic coast, roughly 120 miles west of Marrakech, about 2.5-3 hrs drive by car. Though the two cities may look close on a map, the road (N8) linking the two, as we discovered en route, weaves through semi-arid plains, small Berber villages, and stretches of argan forests.  Unfortunately we didn’t manage to spot any “goats in trees”!

A Moroccan Service Station:
Service stations when you are on a road trip in a foreign country are really important. You need a place to refuel, take a toilet break and grab a snack or lunch particularly if you are on a long journey.
It was helpful, therefore, when our first stop, about an hour and a half into our journey was at a Moroccan service station in Chichaoua. We were both astounded at how organised and friendly the place was. There was a small supermarket area where you could buy provisions, a place to sit and eat/drink as well as toilets.
We opted to order some cold drinks as it was already proving to be quite a hot day. The waiter was so welcoming and soon brought them to the table. The price for two sodas was about half the price of what we had been paying in Marrakech!
Whilst we relaxed for a while, Said had gone to the rear of the services and taken a seat at the counter had ordered a typical Moroccan breakfast explaining that he had been out early that morning dropping some guests at the airport before coming to pick us up.
I thought it was a good idea to pick up some bottles of water whilst we were there and to pop to the toilets before leaving. Again I was astounded how clean they were. You would never believe that you were not in a first world country.

Cooperative Marjana:
Back on the road we soon reached the Cooperative Marjana which was founded to provide economic opportunities and financial independence to women, including widows, divorcees and single mothers. 
As part of the tour provided to all visitors you can observe the meticulous and physically demanding process of cracking the argan nuts and grinding them by hand to create the oil, which is a testament to the women’s hard work and skill. 
Following this element of the stop you then get an opportunity to sample some of their products and take a stroll around their shop. I’m going to be honest here and say that their products are quite expensive but I’m not a beauty connoisseur so maybe they just exceeded my price expectation. I did come home with a few extra items in my luggage, however, to try when I returned home.

Arriving in Essouira:
We stopped momentarily on the hill above Essouira which gave us a great panoramic view of the city and coast line before descending into the town itself. Said dropped us off adjacent to the car park on the sea front and directed us to the fish market and harbour.
While Essouira can be described as a town due to its relaxed atmosphere and relatively compact size, its designation as a “port city” reflects its historical and ongoing importance as a maritime centre. 
It’s design and architecture show significant European influence, particularly Portuguese and French.

Essouira Harbour:
We crossed over the road and made our way to the harbour where I was immediately struck by both the hustle and bustle of the vibrant fish market on the opposite side and the wonderful sea blue fisherman’s boats bobbing around on the water in between.

Making our way around to the market we passed fishermen mending their nets, traditional wooden boats being cleaned or repaired, whilst a couple of bigger boats were still landing the day’s catch. Historically boat builders here in Essouira have supplied fishing vessels for the entire Moroccan coast and even as far away as France.
Stands lined the narrow street, some backing onto the water whilst others opposite backed onto an open space with a couple of what looked like bars with tables and chairs.
We soon learnt from one of the tradesmen that you could buy fish for lunch and then take them across to this area and request for the fish to be cooked for you, taking a seat at one of the tables to enjoy your fishy fare.

We were not, unfortunately, hungry at this point so having wandered up and down taking in the wonderful atmosphere and photographing various stalls we made our way around to the Sqala du Port.


Sqala du Port:
This honey-coloured bastion was built during the reign of Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 1760s as part of the city’s defense system. Its primary purpose was to protect the port of Essaouira from potential naval invasions and it was part of a larger project to establish Essaouira as a major trading port and military stronghold.

For a small fee you can go inside its thick stone walls and explore. We initially looked around the ground level before climbing one of the narrow staircases to the upper level to check out the well-placed and meticulously preserved cannons that still stand guard, aimed at deterring any naval threats.

There are also strategic lookout points which give panoramic views across to the city walls on the right, the Atlantic Ocean below, the bustling port from whence we have come and the whitewashed buildings of the Medina.

Fans of “Game of Thrones” may also recognise the ramparts as those in scenes of Astapor.
The fort’s design not only served a defensive purpose but also adds to the aesthetic charm of the area, blending seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. I really enjoyed walking around aware of those who would have trodden here before me whilst no doubt defending their city from incoming marauders.
Unfortunately due to our time constraints we weren’t able to return here to see the sunset but have stored that idea for a future trip.

Île de Mogador:
Standing as far over to the left as you can, the fort’s elevation also allows you to catch a glimpse of these two islands with several tiny islets that lie just off the coast. Also known as the famed Îles Purpuraires or Purple Isles in ancient times, the Romans used to extract the purple dye from molluscs plucked from the bay to dye their imperial togas.
Today you cannot land on the islands without special permission. They are uninhabited and act as a protected sanctuary for Eleonora’s falcons.
The Eleonora’s falcon is a small raptor that takes its hunting abilities to the next level — by catching small birds, then stripping them of their flight feathers which prevents them from being able to fly away. They then stuff the birds into rock fissures or deep holes, from which they cannot escape and come back to feast on them later! That in itself sounds like some mythical creature from days of yore!

Lunch and a Toilet Break:
Before heading off to the Medina and as we left the fort behind I spotted a sign for a public toilet. Summoning up all my courage hubby and I went to find said ablutions knowing that other toilets were probably few and far between.
Spotting both men and women, both local and tourists alike, queuing alongside a brick built building we went across and joined the queue. For a fairly minimal fee we both paid to enter two separate brick built cubicles with wooden doors. You can imagine my naive surprise when I was faced with a hole in the floor, no loo paper or washing facilities. By this point my bladder was fit to burst so squatting over said hole I proceeded to relieve myself, happy in the knowledge that all I needed was a pee!
I had wet wipes in my rucksack which needless to say came in handy once I was back outside where I then watched as an attendant took a bucket of fresh sea water into the cubicle after me assumedly to wash away my pee .

Just after the public toilets we came across a line of food outlets winding their way around in an “L” shape”. With predominantly blue and white facades each separate tented area offered visitors and locals alike the opportunity to choose a selection of fish and shellfish which then would be cooked on a grill to the rear.
This looked right up our street and so we browsed the whole line before selecting the place we wanted to eat. We tend to always work on the theory that if locals are eating somewhere it’s probably a good choice and in this scenario we chose Restaurant de Grillade de Poissons which was one of the last we had looked at.
Conversing, as best we could, with the gentleman selling the fish we chose a selection before taking a seat at a table inside. Our drinks arrived fairly quickly and then the platter of fish and shellfish as ordered, along with some local bread. We seriously could not fault the quality and it’s probably some of the freshest fish we have ever eaten.

The Medina:
Crossing over Moulay Hassan Square we walked up the street opposite to us -Pl Moulay Hassan stopping off to take out some cash from the bank on our left. From here we walked to the junction and turned right passing Patisserie Driss and then by continuing straight ahead it wasn’t long before we turned left onto Av Oqba Ibn Naafia. By following this clean, honey coloured street with patches of trees and squares of greenery, we soon started to see the small alleyways on the left that represent the outskirts of the Medina.
It’s not as busy or as congested as we have seen in Marrakech and immediately I can sense a more bohemian vibe with shops set amongst the most amazing sparkling, whitewashed buildings with blue shutters.

Just like Marrakech though it is surrounded by honey coloured fortifications making it a UNESCO World Heritage site. The maze-like streets are filled with local artisans, spice stalls, and traditional crafts. 
Browsing the small shops isn’t as frenetic as it feels in Marrakech. I’m not as conscious of the people surrounding me and have no real desire to follow Google Maps but instead we just wander somewhat aimlessly.
On our travels we spot Patisserie La Charlotte and decide to sit outside in the afternoon sun and feast upon a couple of beautiful pastries each accompanied, in my case, by traditional mint tea. It offers a welcome respite before we need to head back to the seafront to meet up with Said and our return journey home.

Essouira Beach:
It’s a 20 minute walk back to the beach, semi-directed by Google. Enough time is left for us to sit on the sea wall and take in the beachfront vibe.
Essouira is a prime location for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and surfing. due to the strong trade winds but on this occasion the beach is full of sun worshippers and paddlers. In the far distance we can spot some horses and camels which look to be offering treks along the beach on the other side of the bay.

Reflecting on our day spent here there’s a real blend of Arabic, Berber, Jewish, and French cultural influences which together have created a somewhat unique and cosmopolitan atmosphere. It’s a place that will definitely be on our road trip of Morocco when we return here in the future.

The final episode in our trip to Marrakech will be a summary of all the wonderful food we have eaten whilst here including our very own cookery lesson……………

A Third Day in Marrakech: From Bahia to Culinary Adventures

Our second day in Marrakech was spent at our Riad learning some wonderful Moroccan cookery which I will happily tell you about on another post where I intend to cover “Feasting in Marrakesh”.
On Day 3, therefore, we set out fairly early once again finding ourselves on the quiet streets of Marrakesh before all the traders are set up to sell their wares. Our first stop of the day is the……

Bahia Palace:
La Bahia or ‘the beautiful” is an 8000 sq metre floor to ceiling palace of fabulous Moroccan marquetry, painted wood known as zouak and amazing plasterwork.
Opened to the public in 1998, the palace began it’s life back in the 1860’s under the guardianship of the Grand Vizier Si Moussa but it was his son and successor, Abu ‘Bou’ Ahmed, who went on to finish it’s construction. Not only did he expand the large Riad which sits at the centre of the palace but also built the small Riad. It is a true example of how powerful families lived in Morocco during the 19th century.

It was still reasonably quiet when we arrived at 9.15 am, although the sun was already shedding it’s warmth on our skin as we entered through the small external garden resplendent with colourful tree blossom and the smell of oranges ripening above us.

Petit Riad:
Closest to the entrance, this area has two separate large rooms which are richly decorated with floral, geometric and written motifs and is similar in layout and size to traditional houses found in the Medina.

The white plasterwork walls, however, have been painstakingly crafted and inscribed with verses from the Quran.

In the 19th century when it was originally decorated, this plaster would have been carved in situ while wet!
At the centre surrounded by this artistry is an open-air courtyard furnished with a four-part garden known as a “charbagh” with a white marble fountain at its central point. This quadrilateral garden layout is divided into four smaller plots by walkways. This design originates from Persia and represents the Paradise Garden with four rivers described in the Quran.

Cour d’Honneur:
Between the Petit Riad and the Grand Riad we also walked through the Cour d’Honneur which is undoubtedly the “heart” of the Palace. At 1500 sq metres in size it is seen to be one of the most spectacular open spaces ever to be conceived in Morocco.
Despite being restored to its original brilliance in 2018, there was more work in progress in this area when we were visiting but we were still able to admire the vast expanse of Italian Carrara marble on the floor along with intricate zellige mosaics and the bright blue and yellow plaster and woodwork.
This area originally served as part of Ba Ahmed’s harem, providing access to around 80 rooms that housed his concubines. 

Grand Riad:
As we wandered on and into the Grand Riad the restoration continued into it’s large courtyard. Although studded with fountains and lush foliage there were sections of the gardens cordoned off which restricted access.
The Grand Riad is the oldest part of the palace complex and I marvelled at the carved wood lintels, zouak artistry and stained-glass detailing – Bahia Palace was thought to be the first building in North Africa to use stained glass as a decorative feature.
The art of Zouak is a traditional wood painting technique native to Morocco. Zouak craftsmen work with only a handful of materials, but draw on hundreds of years of history and heritage. The materials that go into producing Zouak crafts may seem simple enough: fine wood, talc, and a handful of bold colours. But though the materials seem simple, the art of Zouak transforms them into a stunning and intricate finished product.

We both really enjoyed this fine example of Moroccan artistry and architecture and on leaving the palace behind walked past shops now open for trade, selling brightly coloured Moroccan herbs and spices and unique hanging lanterns amongst others.

We were in need of sustenance by this point and thus headed to our next destination……

Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum:
Arriving here at 10.45 am the small downstairs tea salon was quiet but invitingly beautiful. The staff were super friendly, helpful and courteous and we were soon settled at a table with liquid refreshments and a plate of traditional Moroccan biscuits.

This Museum of Culinary Arts claims to be the first of its kind in Morocco and has been established within the confines of a large 18th century palace.
Having finished our break we wandered across all three levels of the museum. Each area focuses on a different type of traditional Moroccan cuisine covering everything from the often seen couscous to soups, pastries and even street food.
Couscous originates from the Berber people with couscous or seksu meaning semolina of wheat in Berber. It is traditionally cooked in couscoussiers. This is a traditional double-chambered food steamer with the lower part, the pot, usually containing water, vegetables, red or white meats and the upper section the actual couscous. Examples of these cooking pots have been found in the excavations of the Numid kingdom from the 2nd century BC.
Couscous is not an accompaniment as we often see back in the UK but an actual full dish with chicken, meat and vegetables, not dissimilar to how we might serve rice in the Western world.
It is very prevalent in Moroccan households often described as “a dish that accompanies us from birth to death, a festive dish, a dish of mourning, a dish of Friday after prayer, a dish of sharing.”

Not surprisingly the interior architecture of this museum is once again astoundingly beautiful………..

There is also a rooftop restaurant which gives you memorable views across the Medina opening at midday.
Having finished our tour we made our way back down and through the tea salon to the external areas. The Riad has two interior courtyard gardens/patios paved with zellige (enamelled terracotta mosaic tiles) with decorative columns and friezes.

At the centre of the first courtyard is a Carrara marble fountain framed by four olive trees and around the perimeter we explored two salons with ceilings more than 16 ft high and traditional elegant furniture.

Having sat within the courtyard and taken in both the sights and sounds of this beautiful Riad we made our way out through the shop, back out onto the street and headed to the

Badi Palace:
Built in the 16th century and taking nearly 25 years to complete, this palace was designed as a testament to the grandeur of the Saadian Dynasty and the beauty of Moroccan art and design. 
Built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, the ruler of the Saadian Dynasty, the palace was built as a symbol of the Sultan’s power and wealth, and it was meant to be a grand display of his wealth and influence. The palace was built with a combination of traditional Moroccan and European styles, and it was decorated with intricate mosaics, marble columns, and ornate carvings. Featuring Italian marble, gold leaf from Sudan, and onyx from India, the palace was said to have 360 rooms, each adorned with the finest materials available.
The grand courtyard, with its sunken gardens and reflecting pools, was the heart of the palace, where banquets and celebrations were held. 
The palace was also home to the Sultan’s harem, which included over 500 women.


At the beginning of the 18th century the palace was, however, destroyed by Sultan Moulay Ismail and all the precious interior decorations and valuables were carried off to the city of Meknes where Ismail intended to build his capital city.
The once magnificent palace was left in ruins, and over time, the site fell into disrepair.
All that remains today are the remnants of this once beautiful palace, one of Marrakech’s most significant historical landmarks, it’s towering walls and the palace’s vast courtyard are now overlooked by the pairs of nesting storks which have made the walls their home!

We, unfortunately, could not get inside!
It can be closed for events, weddings and film shoots and it would appear without notice. We had checked the site only the night before and had not seen any notifications of closure.
However had we decided to buy our tickets in advance we would have found that tickets were not for sale for three days beginning on Day 3 of our trip!
It was disappointing but serves as a learning curve for us and an education for others who may also not necessarily want to buy tickets in advance that it is worth checking availability even if you are not buying!

Day 3, thus, came to a bit of an abrupt end but we happily wandered back to our Riad and instead spent a little time relaxing on the top floor in the sunshine on a couple of sunbeds!

My next post about Marrekech centres on the beautiful beachside resort of Essouira, coming soon…………….

Learning More About Marrakesh (Day 1 contd.)

Leaving the cafe at the top of the Maison De La Photographie behind we make our way down onto the street and turn right back towards Ben Youseff Medersa from where we ardently follow “Google Maps” to our next destination ten minutes away ……………..

Le Jardin Secret:
This wonderful garden originates from the second half of the sixteenth century and alongside the palace was occupied until 1934 after which it fell into disrepair. The idea of restoring the building complex and opening it to the public started in 2008, and Le Jardin Secret came into being eight years later.
Whilst we are both lovers of architecture the primary reason for visiting this oasis of peace is the traditional Islamic Garden which was restored following the likely nineteenth century layout which gave it four sections. This sits alongside a carefully laid out exotic garden.

The original “khettara” or underground irrigation system was also restored and can be seen immediately as you enter and this still feeds water to the gardens today.

The water paths highlight the way in which the water, coming from the Atlas Mountains, was distributed inside the palace not just to irrigate the gardens but also to serve the kitchens, the hammam and fountains.
Interestingly Muslim culture considers water to be a symbol of life and a sign of God’s existence and power, while heaven is described in the Quran as a “garden in which streams flow”.

There are plenty of places to stop, relax and enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the gardens. We certainly didn’t feel rushed in our exploration.

At it’s centre you can admire the creative woodwork arches and decorative ceiling of this middle creation.

There are two cafes to choose from should you want to eat or drink – Café Sahrij is at ground level:

and the Café Menzeh is at the back and upstairs which is where we decided to have lunch overlooking the gardens below:

We were more than happy with the menu and the food and service provided.

Koutoubia Mosque:
We left the Gardens and turned right to walk another 15 minutes to the largest mosque in Marrakech. The call to prayer begins just as we approach and, as a result, whilst we cannot enter the inside of the building (as we are not of the Muslim religion) we do get a glimpse of the beautiful interior.

The mosque began its life back in 1147, with a second version of the mosque being entirely rebuilt around 1158 with the 253 ft minaret being finally completed in 1195. It is this second mosque that we see today, a great example of Almohad architecture.
The mosque was named after the Arabic word for “booksellers”. At one time as many as 100 book vendors worked in the streets at the base of the mosque.

There are many photos to be had from all sides although whilst we were visiting there was scaffolding on one side.

The square design of the minaret separates it from the more commonly seen domed shape prevalent in the Middle East. It’s scalloped keystone arches and jagged merlon crenellations are architecturally beautiful.

As you can see the minaret is topped by a spire of brass balls, these are filled with a special mineral salt taken from the High Atlas Mountains which includes nitrate and magnesium which prevents the spire from oxidising. This salt is changed yearly during Ramadan to ensure this brass pinnacle maintains its glow.
There are no stairs within the minaret, only a ramp, which the muezzin would have once ridden up on horseback to give, the five times a day, call to prayer.
The wooden stick at the top points towards Mecca and also bears flags on religious holidays.

To the rear of the mosque there are several gardens including The Koutoubia Gardens where once again you can retreat from the general fray of Marrakesh traffic, people and scooters and find a bench in the shade.
We visited the Park Lalla Hasana with its fountains, park benches, sculptures, palm trees and flowers.

Patisserie Des Princes:
Our walk back to the Riad from here will take us 30 minutes so we decide to encompass this wonderful Patisserie that I had read about during my advance research.
We feel like we are taking our lives in our hands as we cross the busy roads outside of the mosque in order to make our way towards the main square “Djemaa El Fna”. The patisserie is on our right as we walk along Pass. Prince Moulay Rachid.
This is one of the city’s most famous patisseries and a wonderful “hangover” from the French influence I have explained previously. On arrival you will see an ice cream kiosk outside so if, unlike us tea and cake doesn’t tempt you, then maybe an ice cream will. Amongst the array of flavours on offer you will find orange and even date or fig alongside more traditionally expected tastes.

Inside you will find two large display cabinets where the team of dedicated, skilled chefs create delightful confections that reflect a passion for the art of pastry-making.

You can place your order with one of the staff behind the counter and then at the rear of the shop is a small tea room. Smartly dressed waiters are available to seat you at a table and take your drinks order whilst also delivering your beautiful chosen cakes.

We were spoilt for choice and opted for two cakes each, alongside some home made lemonade for hubby and refreshing mint tea for me. The total cost of this little afternoon sojourn was less than £10 and it felt lovely to be amongst the mainly female Moroccan ladies taking a break from their shopping and treating themselves to a similar afternoon delicacy.

Our first day ended here before we made our way back to the Riad. Day 3 was a slightly less frenetic day which is coming soon……………….

Starting our Exploration of Marrakesh (Day 1)

Good Morning:
I slept quite well on our first night and was woken the next day by the call to prayer at about 4.30 a.m. Rather than being annoyed at such an early disturbance I marvelled at this new culture I was now part of and just drifted back off to sleep, waking a bit later to the sounds of people outside on the street. Washed and dressed we made our way down to breakfast early, wondering what we would find to eat and drink.
Pandering to the needs of us foreigners there was a choice of coffee or tea. I always bring my own decaf teabags so I asked and received a teapot of hot water or on another morning asked and received Moroccan mint tea.
We were also offered freshly squeezed orange juice and again, as is our normal, we both accepted this offer and then hubby drank his before swapping his empty glass for mine and consuming that as well. Juices are acidic and, therefore, to avoid inflammation that enhances the swelling on the inside of my arthritic knees I never indulge.
There was a selection of tiny serving bowls with honey, two types of jam and butter. Yoghurt and fruit were laid on the table alongside spongy, honey-comb like pancakes which we later discovered were called “Baghrir”.
Every morning at the Riad breakfast took the same format except the pancakes were substituted for “Batbout” – a small, fluffy bread, similar to a pitta or “Msemmen -a flaky, square-shaped Moroccan pancake and sometimes we were also given small Moroccan cakes. Everything, we discovered, was cooked fresh on site by Said’s wife.

Exploring:
Armed with the map that Said had given us (hubby still loves a map!), my itinerary and my trusted Google maps app we set off early at about 8.45 a.m. on our first morning ready to explore the city. Despite what I had previously read, whilst back at home researching, it soon became apparent that it was really easy to follow Google Maps in order to reach any destination in Marrakech we wanted to see.
Making our way back to the main street “Rue De Bab Aylan” we turned right and within about ten minutes arrived at our first stop.

Ben Youssef Medersa:
This theological college was built here in the 14th century before being rebuilt in 1565 by the Saadian Sultan Abdullah Al-Ghaleb Assaadi. This is the largest Medersa in Morocco and for 400 years it remained a central part of Marrakech, attracting scholars thirsty for knowledge in various fields but particularly the religious sciences.
With 136 rooms spread across its ground floor and upper floor, a prayer hall, a courtyard, and an ablution room, visitors now flock here to admire the beautiful and outstanding Moroccan architecture.

The Courtyard:
Entering through latticed doors the courtyard is spread out in front of you. With a large pool set in the marble floor, surrounded by channels that keep the water flowing and an Arabic inscription on the entryway which reads “You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded”.

It is truly a masterpiece, displaying Moroccan architecture. through the ages with diverse motifs, vibrant colours, and astounding tile work. The walls and columns are covered with “zellige” -colourful, geometric mosaic tile work with friezes of calligraphy above, then intricate stucco carving and finally everything is topped off by carved cedar wood.

At either end of the patio are two porticos with sturdy pillars, perfectly symmetrical and facing each other. They complement the open-air courtyard and also provide shelter from the sun and bad weather.

Unfortunately there are very few seats on which to sit and admire the incredible craftsmanship on display here, I felt like I just wanted to drink it all in and create a forever indelible memory to return to in the future.
Before leaving the courtyard behind to explore the upper quarters where the students lived it’s important to enter the prayer room at the far end of the courtyard, opposite the entrance. Look up and you will see beautiful honeycombed “mugarnas” on the domed ceiling.

Students Lodging:
All the students who studied here also lodged on the second level. With 130 rooms, up to 800 students could be accommodated at any one time spread out in dormitories arranged on different levels around the main courtyard and also around six other courtyards open to the sky to provide light (as shown in the photo below).
The stone pillars once again display the attention to detail adopted here with intricate patterns and engravings.

It is possible to walk through the corridors that the students would have used and enter many of the bedrooms. Those overlooking the courtyard are particularly worth looking into. No expense was spared here with some outstanding wooden engraving and decoration.

Both of us admire architecture and to see something so marvellously unique was a wonderful start to our trip.

Maison de la Photographie:
Less than a five minute stroll from the Medersa is this wonderful photography exhibition.

French Influence:
Historically France established control over Morocco from 1912 to 1956 making French the dominant language in official capacities such as in the government, education, and the media. It also influenced daily life and infrastructure within the country.
As a result the French language became a significant second language in Morocco, a trend that continues today. This led to a lasting influence where many Moroccan locals still speak French, especially in urban areas and the tourism industry, resulting in French names being used for some historical sites, businesses, and attractions.

The Maison de la Photographie de Marrakech has been open since 2009 and was established by Parisian Patrick Menac’h and Hamid Mergani from Marrakech itself. They both realised that they had individually been collecting vintage Moroccan photography and as a result opened this gallery in order to show people their collections. Their primary aim was to show the extraordinary diversity of Morocco, as seen by those, anonymous or famous, who visit it from the beginnings of photography until the modern period : 1860 – 1960.

Whilst parts of this three storey exhibition change every 6-12 months, the ground floor courtyard with rooms fanning off it are devoted to portraiture. Everyday life is dominant in the photos on display here. Below is one of my favourites of a little girl and her lamb.

Throughout the exhibition you also get to see once again some great examples of Moroccan interior design such as these wonderful windows.

And these balustrades….

Also on the ground floor you get to see the oldest photos on display here. Photographs which show how photography started here in Morocco when the first Europeans arrived with cameras and began documenting life here with images of Tangier taken between 1870 and 1900.

On the rooftop terrace you will find a cafe where we decided to purchase our first Moroccan food outside of the Riad. The cafe is at one of the highest points in the Medina and so affords some fantastic views alongside a cosy and comfortable area to sit and just take a breath.

As we do just that I’m going to take a pause in our adventure and let you join us on my next post as we continue our exploration of this wonderful city.…………………….

From Holidays to Adventures: A Personal Travel Evolution

Lonely Planet Magazine changed my perspective on travel:
Many years ago I remember wandering around a magazine/book store at Heathrow airport and picking up a copy of Lonely Planet magazine. Little did I know that this innocent gesture would lead me up a path of no return…….
I sat on the plane absorbing all the articles and photographs, my mind transporting me to all the exotic places outlined in my reading and on my return from holiday I readily subscribed to the magazine.
It was a turning point in my life, I started to wave goodbye to “holidays in the sun” and began to think about actual “adventures” abroad. I would read the magazine from cover to cover, tearing out articles and eventually setting up files on my bookshelf where these prospective escapades would sit in their plastic covers, in alphabetical order, of course, awaiting a time when I would be able to pull them out and actually make those dreams a reality!

The magazine, unfortunately, ceased to exist in the UK in April 2020 and suddenly I was thrust back into a world without those monthly inspirational articles and dreams of where I was going to venture to next.
Covid suddenly meant that travelling became impossible and everyone was forced to spend their summer at home. It gave me a breathing space, however, to address all those carefully filed travel suggestions and formulate some actual plans for the future.

In 2021, still reeling from the epidemic but supported by articles about various cities and places to see in the UK I began to plot our first road trip. There were so many places here, in my home country, that I wanted to see. Places that had been defined as potential short breaks or weekends away with cathedrals and castles, beautiful countryside or seaside walks but places that were just sitting in a folder and never seeing the light of day. Inspiration overtook rationalisation and I finally joined the dots of all those places and we embarked upon a 56 day road trip of England and Scotland including the NC500.

Dunrobin Castle on the East Coast of Scotland

Then in 2022 we spent three weeks in Barbados in March which gave us an insight into that feeling of hot sun on your skin, whilst back at home the weather continues to be wet and miserable. We also finally got married and went off island hopping in Greece during the summer.

A Little Friend in the Andromeda Gardens, Barbados

2023 we left home for six months travelling around Europe and then America including Route 66 and the Eastern Seaboard. The freedom of the open road appealed to us. Just hubby and I against the world. Loads to see and do, again thanks to many of those LP articles giving me inspiration!

Only Those Of Us Who Have Completed Route 66 Know The Significance Of This Place

2024 turned into a unexpected pause due to ill health apart from a short foray for 2 weeks to Crete. This forced us to face the reality that “holidays even in the sun” are just no longer our thing. We needed mental stimulation and places to explore!

2025 started with a bang as we returned to the Caribbean exploring Grenada and returning to Barbados to see places still on our wish list. I also learned to snorkel for the first time, not bad for a midlifer who only a few years ago was not confident at all in deep water and looked on in envy when other people talked about the “other world under the waves”.
Trips to The Netherlands and then Las Vegas followed to sign off a couple of places we had previously missed back in 2023.

The Beautiful Town Of Gouda in The Netherlands

Amongst all the LP articles was another road trip that had picqued my interest. This trip, if we were to take it, would begin in Tarifa in Southern Spain, taking the ferry across to Tangier in Morocco and then would follow the coast road down through the capital -Rabat. On southwards to world famous Casablanca (thanks to the historic movie of the same name) before winding its way to Safia, Essaouira and finally to Agadir.
It seemed like a good idea but Morocco isn’t a first world country. I appreciate this terminology is somewhat outdated now and countries trend to be categorised by their development but whichever method is used Morocco is still a developing country and possibly still sits in the third world country category on the old scale.

It seemed like quite a challenging concept to “road trip” in a country that is still developing. I’d read travel books but they predominantly focused on Marrakech rather than the country as a whole. Reports from travellers of feeling unsafe and rampant petty theft didn’t instil me with confidence. Friends that had been there came back with mixed viewpoints. And so finally we decided to get on a plane to Marrakesh ourselves and dip our toe in the water so to speak………………

Arriving at the Airport:
As the plane lowered itself through the clouds in preparation for landing at the international airport of Marrakesh Menara I was amazed at the layout of the land below me. Squares upon squares of fertile agricultural land, views of the Atlas Mountains in the distance and certainly not the disparate, bare landscape I had anticipated.
If you ever watched Luke Skywalker in the Star Wars movie, A New Hope (Episode IV), where he is living on the desert planet of Tatooine with his family, then that was what I had imagined. Maybe because it was filmed in the next door country of Tunisia!
This looked so different to what my mind had conjured up and on landing at the airport I was even more shocked at how modern the airport is.

The new terminal was finished in 2016 and features some wonderful traditional Moroccan patterns and motifs, such as diamond-shaped tiles in various shades of green and terracotta, which create a unique blend of old and new. 

It’s a slightly different process getting through the airport here to what we are accustomed to, in so much as once you have been through security and had your passports checked you then have another manual check before you go into baggage reclaim. Once you have located your bags you then have to queue again to have them passed through an airport security machine before you can actually leave the airport.
It’s important also to get some Moroccan cash before leaving the airport.
It is a closed country which means that the currency cannot be taken in or out, it just stays in the country. The ideology behind this is that it protects their economy from the ups and downs of global trading.
We used an ATM at the airport to withdraw our initial cash but other visitors were using one of the two exchange counters.

Wi-fi is in good supply at the airport so you don’t need to actually use your data allowance but I would suggest that you ensure you have sorted your mobile phone contract in advance of arrival. We have 56 days each on our UK contract that allow us to utilise data in most countries in the world without any additional costs.

Getting to our Riad:
My research had shown me that independent travellers are best to book an airport transfer in advance rather than rely upon picking up a taxi at the airport. Taxis waiting at a stand are not obliged to use their meters and will often drop you off at Djemaa El Fna central square. There are a couple of reasons for this:
– There are no cars allowed on the narrow lanes within the city walls on which most riads are found.
– For this reason the taxi drivers do not need to speak your language or worry about the address you are willingly providing to them at the airport because they are not going to take you there.
– Finally young men in Marrakesh learn very early in life that money can be made from tourists who are dropped off in the square and then, looking completely bewildered and lost, need help locating their specific riad. If you do decide to opt for this idea make sure you agree a price for the guidance in advance.

We were fully prepared and our driver -Said has already text me on WhatsApp after our plane has landed letting me know where to find him. He greets us with a welcoming smile and leads us to his vehicle.

En route to our Riad, which is about a 20 minute drive, Said welcomes us to his country and speaking very good English explains a bit more about how the city operates. The roads are tremendously busy and somewhat chaotic at times.

The city was founded between 1062 and 1070 AD by the Almoravids, a Berber dynasty. Said, himself, originates from a Berber tribe who live outside of the city, nestled in villages stretching East out to the Atlas Mountains, although he now lives within the city walls with his wife and children.  
Marrakesh is the fourth-largest city in Morocco and is known as “The Red City” because the majority of buildings are built with distinctive red sandstone. The city grew rapidly and soon established itself as a cultural, religious, and trading centre with the ancient walls of Marrakech standing as a boundary between the vast desert landscapes and the burgeoning city.
These 12th century city walls are clearly visible on our route and stand majestically up to 32 feet tall. Made of earth, lime, and straw, they originally served to protect the city’s inhabitants and up until the early 20th century, the gates were all securely closed at night.

Today they enclose the historic Medina, packed with vendors and their stalls, marking a boundary between it and the modern city built on its outskirts. It is in this modern external section that you will find all the plush hotels with designs that often feature open courtyards, mosaic-lined rooms, and luxury amenities, providing a peaceful, modern escape from the city’s bustling historic centre.
This is not on our agenda and we are more than happy when Said pulls up in a car park explaining that there are nineteen gates through which you can enter the city. It reminds me of the start of the “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves” film with Kevin Costner and Morgan Freeman when Robin is imprisoned whilst fighting the crusades and escapes after dark to make his way back to England. The narrow lanes, tall historic buildings, noise and chaos hit you immediately you enter through the gate.

Said explains that we need to walk on the right. Whilst cars are not allowed within the Medina walls, scooters are prevalent allowing their passengers to quickly traverse this ancient capital and carefully meander their way through the cobbled lanes of the city.

The sights and sounds immediately attack your senses. People abound, men, women and children all in traditional dress. Donkeys pulling carts laden with anything from produce to building materials also make their way amongst the melee. Every lane is lined on both sides with small open shop fronts with busy locals selling their wares. You immediately realise that you need to be aware of your surroundings, not for any sinister reason, but purely so you don’t cross someone’s path or get in the way. We may be the tourists but this is “their city” and there is an air of pride present.

Riad Shaden:
I found the Riad on a Facebook group for retired travellers. It was recommended and having researched it a little further it appeared to be exactly what we were looking for.
We had turned right off the lane leading from the gate and circumnavigated a mosque to arrive at the Riad’s front door.
As became apparent on our adventures in Marrakesh these doors are often quite inconspicuous, if you didn’t know they were there you could easily walk on by.

As we arrive we are met by two other British tourists who appear to be having a debate with a very tall young man in traditional dress. It appears this couple didn’t know about the aforementioned taxi problem and have indeed been dropped at the main square and the young man has led them to the Riad. The discussion is now about the money he feels he is owed for extending this courtesy.
Said leads us inside and immediately we are struck by the silence. The heavy, black door cuts off all noise from beyond the walls and we are led into a central courtyard. Tables and chairs are placed neatly on the paving stones, water trickles from an inlaid stone feature to my right, potted plants enjoy the sunshine and around the top of the courtyard a beautiful balcony can be seen.
The rooms all face into the courtyard, creating a sense of privacy and seclusion from the outside world. Intricate Moroccan craftsmanship abounds with zellige (pronounced zuh-leej) tilework, carved woodwork on the doors of each room and tadelakt plaster in between. I am so impressed and also so pleased that we came to a traditional Riad instead of a soulless hotel, where we quite honestly, could have been anywhere in the world.

While Said goes back out to assist the couple, his brother Imran leads us into a comfortable salon with large, colourful sofas into which you can collapse after a long day. Imran serves us the traditional mint tea in a silver teapot with a small collection of Moroccan cakes.
Peace surrounds us and I’m already sold on this amazing piece of the world’s architecture, beauty and tranquillity.

Part 2 of Marrakesh will take you on our journey through the medina to some of the many key sites we wanted to see and experience………………………





Maximize Your Travel Experience with GPSmyCity App

Read on for your FREE Welcome bonus!

As a midlife adventurer I’m the first to admit that working with on line apps and websites isn’t always my cup of tea.
I was in the first group at my senior school to be offered an O’Level course in Computing way back in the late 70’s. The career path I then followed when I left school increased my knowledge of various Microsoft products and my children, now in their late twenties, have also attempted to keep me up to date as much as they can with new ideas and technologies as they surface.
For me, therefore, to be introducing you to this app is a major step forward!
But it is so easy to use and even the upgraded version is at a very acceptable and reasonable cost.

In this day and age utilising your phone whilst travelling abroad can become a bit of a nightmare. Maybe you don’t have a cell phone plan for the country you are visiting or utilising your data abroad comes at a daily cost, then the idea that you can download articles in advance and access them later without an internet connection is a real advantage.

GPSmyCity – How It Works:
By using GPSmyCity you can access any travel article and it comes complete with GPS co-ordinates embedded in the article and even a map of the route the author has described!
There are literally thousands of these articles to choose from, with hundreds of cities worldwide at your fingertips at GPSmyCity. Once this app is downloaded to your phone you will not need any internet to use the article as a guide.

If like me you don’t rely upon a travel agent to sell you a package deal but enjoy creating your own made-to-measure travel plan then these articles can be invaluable. You can upload any travel article from GPSmyCity free of charge, so that you can read it at your leisure without wi-fi or even link it to your itinerary ready for use when you arrive at your destination!
There is also the option to upgrade for a small fee or to subscribe annually (for just over a £1 a month!) so you can improve your travel planning further by accessing an offline map showing the points of interest. It then links the app to GPS, so when you are actually in the city you can get a route to the places mentioned in the article. It shows you exactly where you are on the map and guides you to each subsequent location!
No more printing off pages of literature to take with you or packing heavy guidebooks!
If you are visiting multiple cities, as we did on our Western European tour, you can have access to everything in one place.

Additional Welcome Offer:
I’m pleased to say that my blog amidlifeadventure.org is now featured on the app and as such I can now personally introduce you to the GPSmyCity app in order for you to experience how good it is for yourself and your future travels.
Whilst many of my articles now feature on the app if you access any of the following travel articles between Monday August 18th and Monday September 1st you can access any of these three articles, download them for FREE and upgrade to the full version for FREE!


“Exploring Rotterdam: A Guide to Its Must-See Attractions –
We visited Rotterdam on a recent trip whilst staying in The Netherlands. This a photograph of the market or Markthal where you can see many different foods for sale or even grab something to eat for lunch. There’s so much to see and do, this is a real gem of a city!

This article is now featured on GPSmyCity-https://www.gpsmycity.com.
To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article just click on this link:
 https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8542


“Glastonbury -An Ancient Town Full of Integrity“
We completed a UK Road trip, driving for 56 days throughout England and Scotland. This is Glastonbury Tor.
Tradition has it that here lies the Holy Grail brought here by Jesus’s uncle, Joseph of Arimathea. The Cauldron and the Grail were both the object of quests for King Arthur and his knights.

This article is now featured on GPSmyCity – https://www.gpsmycity.com.
To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, just click on this link:  https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8537


“Top Attractions in Saint George’s, Grenada“ 
We visited Grenada earlier this year whilst travelling around the Caribbean. I loved this typical Caribbean house in the centre of Saint George’s!

“This article is now featured on GPSmyCity-https://www.gpsmycity.com
To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, just click on this link:
  https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8540

How To Access This Offer:
To get your free upgraded app, you need to click on the link for the article(s) you are interested in.
– Then follow the instructions to download the GPSMyCity app.
– You will then be taken to the page for the article app
– Click on Upgrade and the app will be automatically linked to an offline map and the GPS navigator.
– Once you have read my article(s) why not browse all the cities offered on GPSmyCity and start planning your next trip

My Articles:
I have other articles on the GPSMyCity app (https://www.gpsmycity.com) which you might also find interesting.

Visiting England:
“The Cotswolds – Shopping in Nailsworth”  – https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8546
“Exploring Stratford upon Avon”– https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8539

Visiting Europe:
Utrecht: Must-See Attractions and Shopping Spots”– https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8541 

Visiting America:
Impressions of Chicago – https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8535
“Top Free Attractions in Las Vegas: A Visitor’s Guide” – https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8543
“Santa Fe – The Contradiction”– https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8536
“Washington DC – What a Capital City!”– https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/8538

Alternatively you can browse my blog –amidlifeadventure.org.
Just tap on the “blogs” section in the top right hand corner and every post will appear in chronological order working backwards from today. I’ve been running it since 2023 so there are plenty of posts to choose from!

I’m happy to receive any comments or questions. I always do my best to answer them.
Additionally you can subscribe in order to receive my posts straight to your inbox.. You’ll find the subscribe button in the bottom right hand corner of any post.
Happy Reading!

Exploring the Cotswolds: Finding The Source of the Thames

A little while ago I came across a local app on Facebook entitled “Glos Walks” which has entertained hubby and I in helping us to discover new walks in and around our great county of Gloucestershire.

Gloucestershire:
Covering 1024 sq miles this beautiful county lying in the South West of England was likely established in the tenth century, and expanded to approximately its current borders in the eleventh century.
It has three main landscape areas including a large part of the Cotswolds, associated with its honey coloured stone houses and cottages and designated areas of outstanding natural beauty. The Cotswolds take up a large portion of the east and south of the county.
These days, of course, it is also well known for its many famous residents including King Charles III, Princess Anne and her family, the Beckhams (just across the border), model Kate Moss, artist Damien Hirst, actor Richard E Grant and singer James Morrison to name but a few.

Also within it’s boundaries is the second landscape that is the Royal Forest of Dean, which takes up a large portion of the west of the county and which featured heavily in the filming of the Harry Potter film -Deathly Hallows. Probably not surprising when its author J K Rowling spent part of her childhood in this area.
The final landscape is the Severn Vale which stretches from historic Tewkesbury in the north of Gloucestershire, past the cathedral city of Gloucester and flows down towards the market towns and countryside of South Gloucestershire, following the winding path of the mighty River Severn. Along this scenic corridor, you will find castles, wetlands, picturesque villages and peaceful riverside walks.

The aforementioned app features over 150 walks so whether you are a resident of picturesque Gloucestershire or a temporary visitor there are plenty of new experiences and places to explore. All of the walks are circular which makes it so much easier to park up and then venture out to explore the countryside.
Joined by an old junior school friend and her husband who now live in The Netherlands we set out one sunny morning recently to find the source of the River Thames. This walk is under the heading of “Coates” on the app.

Coates:
The small village of Coates lies about 3 miles west of the Roman town of Cirencester. A large proportion of the houses and land within the village form part of the 15,500 acre Bathurst Estate. Earl Bathurst being based nearby at Cirencester Park.
Parking up in the village centre we hop out of the car and utilising the “yellow brick road” on the app set off on our walk in an anti clockwise direction.
It’s not long before we are passing the local 13th century church of St Matthews, sited right on the edge of the village and tucked away from immediate view. With its perpendicular tower, Norman doorway and well kept graveyard to the front I felt like it was thanking me for making it part of our walk today and was wishing us well on our journey today.

Making our way across some recently cut arable farmland we head towards the railway line.
The Golden Valley Railway Line:
This is the line that connects Swindon to Gloucester and Cheltenham Spa which opened between 1841-1845.
The “Golden Valley” is actually the section of the valley located between Chalford and Stroud where the River Frome flows, which the railway line follows for part of its route. However according to legend Queen Alexandra, wife of King Edward VII travelled along this route back in June 1909 and was struck by the sheer beauty of the countryside through which the train was travelling and coined the phrase “the Golden Valley” and it has stuck ever since.
If you are travelling from London and don’t wish to drive up to Gloucestershire, trains run regularly from London Paddington and you can experience the “Golden Valley” for yourself just as Queen Alexandra did.

Trains run regularly along this track in both directions and so crossing the line even at the designated place needs some care particularly with children and animals. We had to wait for a train to go past, blowing its horn as if to emphasise its domination and warning us of the danger.
On the opposite side we skirt Hailey Woods and join the Wysis Way. This is a 55 mile walking route which forms a link between the Offa’s Dyke Path and Thames Path, both national trails in the United Kingdom. Starting at Monmouth in Wales it winds its way east through the Forest of Dean to the top of May Hill (971ft), through Gloucester before turning south east through the beautiful villages of Painswick, Bisley and Oakridge Lynch and then following the Thames-Severn canal to Sapperton and eventually Kemble where it joins the Thames Path.
Who knew you could walk all the way from Monmouth in Wales to London?

Tunnel House Inn:

Arriving at the Tunnel House it is sad to see it shut and boarded up. It was well known back in my teenage years as a place to frequent for the odd drink or meal hidden away from the main road running from Cirencester to Stroud. Unfortunately it ceased trading in 2020 when the pub’s management were unable to reach an agreement with the landlords, The Bathurst Estate, which prevented them from continuing to trade. 

It was actually originally built back in the 1780’s for the navvies working on the two mile long Sapperton tunnel on the Thames and Severn canal. There was a huge loss of life during the digging of the tunnel from 1788-90. The inn provided both lodgings for the navvies and also occasionally became a makeshift mortuary!

Turning left down the steps we join the Monarchs Way, a path known for its diverse scenery, which passes through various landscapes, including the Cotswolds, as well as many historical sites. 
Stretching some 625-miles across England, Monarchs Way traces the escape route of King Charles II after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. It is not a single, unbroken path but rather a network of existing footpaths and rights of way that roughly follow the historical route from Worcester, through Bristol and Yeovil, to Shoreham, West Sussex.

Sapperton Canal Tunnel:
Opened in 1789 this was the longest canal tunnel ever constructed in the United Kingdom at 2.17 miles in length, it is now the third longest. The first boat passed through the tunnel in April 1789 and the last commercial traffic to use the tunnel was in May 1911. Today the Sapperton Tunnel remains impassable with a number of significant roof falls and a complete blockage near the Sapperton end. 
During the working life of the waterway, canal craft did not have engines. Instead, boats were pulled along the canal by horse, donkey or a man walking along the towpath. However there is no towpath within the tunnel so in order to get a boat through the tunnel, one or two men would lie on their backs on board the boat and ‘walk’ along the tunnel wall or roof. This process was known as ‘legging’. Another method used a pole to push the boat along, again using the tunnel wall or roof.

Active plans and restoration efforts to reconnect the 36 miles of the Thames and Severn Canal, specifically through the Cotswolds Canals Trust are in place. The restoration of Sapperton Tunnel is entirely feasible from an engineering standpoint. As might be expected though, this will be the most complex and expensive single element of the Thames and Severn Canal restoration.
Maybe one day we will be able to repeat this walk and actually see boats once again meandering along this wonderful old canal.
In the meantime our walk takes us alongside the canal sometimes ducking under or climbing over fallen trees that haven’t been removed in recent storms.

Coates Round House:
Alongside the canal path on our right we come across this wonderful historic building and immediately set about exploring inside and outside as best we can.
This is actually one of the five round houses on the Thames and Severn Canal, which were originally built as lengthsman’s cottages between 1791-2. One of the responsibilities of the lengthsman was keeping the towpath in good condition, ensuring it was clear of obstructions and suitable for horses to pull the boats. The Coates Round House featured as one of the three tallest of these roundhouses, the additional height concealing an inverted conical roof for collecting rainwater.
The ground floor was designed for stabling, and the upper floors, linked by an internal staircase, for living accommodation. This particular building was modernised and extended, and the ground-floor portion was then incorporated into the living accommodation.
The building is now unfortunately derelict, lacking floors or roof, but structurally it is in a reasonable condition.

All five original round houses on the Thames and Severn Canal have survived. Forming part of the Bathurst Estate this is the only one that is derelict.

Skew Bridge:
Leaving the roundhouse behind we walk underneath the railway bridge that carries the Golden Valley railway over the canal. Before the Ocean Railway Bridge was re-built and opened near Stonehouse in 2022 in association with the aforementioned Cotswold Canal Trust, this bridge was the only remaining live railway bridge on the Cotswold Canals. Notable for its intricate brickwork it’s worth a stop and a photo.

And finally the Source of the Thames:
Whilst our circular walk from Coates doesn’t officially include walking to the source of the Thames it offers it as a slight diversion. Leaving the canal path behind we turn right and walk over green pastureland, keeping the boundary on our left and crossing over two fairly steep step stiles ( not great if you have a dog with you) plus one further stile.
It is during this section of our walk that we bump into a gentleman on his bike with his dog and in typical Cotswold fashion stop to pass the time of day. It transpires that his family own the land on which we stand and a polite conversation ensues where we learn more about the surrounding area and the Thames source.
You can’t miss the famous source of the Thames, there is a clear upright stone marker accompanied by a pile of small stones in front, below which the spring head is located. Both of these were placed here by the Thames Conservators in the 19th century to indicate the official source of the River Thames. 

While the area is considered the source, the springs themselves are often dry, as they were on our visit. Our farmer acquaintance had explained that the route to the stones that we had walked is, however, often very wet and can form a stream after heavy rainfall. 

There may not have been any water present on our visit but we were joyful anyway to have actually stood where the Thames begins before it makes it way eastwards across Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire and on into London. The Thames Path also begins here and is clearly marked telling you it is 184 miles to walk to the Thames Barrier in London where the path ends!

Finishing the Circle:
We returned to the point where we had diverted off “our yellow path” and followed it the short distance back to Coates and back to our car.

If you are in need of refreshments, The Thames Head Inn is only a five minute drive from here on the main Tetbury to Cirencester road. We haven’t been there but Tripadvisor gives it 4.5 stars from over 600 reviews if you wish to take a look.

Gloucestershire offers some wonderful opportunities for you to take a stroll, a walk or even a hike in some beautiful countryside and the Glos Walks app really helps with this. You can get a real insight to the distance, topography and sites before you embark on your chosen walk and they also recommend some “watering holes” for refreshments.

NB:
This is my fourteenth post in a series I have written about The Cotswolds. Why not check out the others and share with me any that you would recommend for us.




Day 4: Exploring The Houses of Parliament at the Centre of UK Politics

Having spent day three immersing ourselves in art we left our hotel for our final day of exploration and caught the DLR once again from Westferry, jumping out at Tower Hill and transferring onto the District Line to Westminster.
Exiting from the Tube station we are immediately met by the sheer magnificence of Big Ben and alongside him the Houses of Parliament.

Tickets for the Houses of Parliament:
Having never visited the Houses of Parliament we purchased tickets on line. In so doing you need to pick both your day of visit and time. The early morning slots sell out quickest as visitors fight to miss the usual tourist melee of central London and so booking well in advance is a good idea.

The U.K. House of Parliament or Palace of Westminster is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm. You have a choice of guided tours and multimedia tours. Multimedia tours allow you up to 90 minutes inside the Parliament buildings using their audio guides. The guided tours last 75 minutes and these sell out quite quickly, another reason to plan your visit well in advance. All tours mostly take place on weekdays and Saturdays. We opted for the self guided multimedia tour.

We cross over the road from the station to the other side of Westminster Bridge and keeping Parliament Square on our right and the Houses of Parliament on our left we walk straight down the road to the visitors entrance at Cromwell Green. They suggest you arrive about twenty minutes before your chosen time to allow for queuing and once inside the building there is an airport security check so it is worth making sure you have read what you are allowed and not allowed to bring with you, including the size of any bags.

Westminster Hall:
Once inside the building you step straight into Westminster Hall where we picked up our audio guide. Fully equipped and working I turn around and just stand and look around me, this magnificent entrance hall built between 1097 and 1099 immediately immerses me in it’s history, imagine what history the walls have been privy to!

In 1189 Richard I held the first recorded coronation feast here.
It was here in 1606 that the trial of Guy Fawkes and the Gunpowder Plot conspirators took place, followed by the trial of King Charles I in 1649.
Fast forward to 1910 and the body of Edward VII was the first royal to lay-in-state here prior to his Royal funeral.
In 1960 President de Gaulle of France addressed both Houses of Parliament within this space as did Nelson Mandela in 1996.
Finally in 2022 our longest serving monarch Queen Elizabeth II also lay in state here. It is estimated that over 250,000 people queued up and bade their last farewell to her across the four days that she lay in state.

Westminster Hall is the oldest building in Parliament and almost the only part of the ancient Palace of Westminster which survives in almost its original form. The Hall was indeed by far the largest hall in England, and probably in Europe at that time. Measuring 240 by 67 feet, it had a floor area covering about 17,000 square feet and walls that are some six feet thick.
The roof is in itself a bit of a mystery, made of wood timber the roof is the largest hammer-beam roof in the world. However it wasn’t until the 13th or 14th century that carpenters could create roofs significantly wider than the length of the available timber. So how was it built? Well it was assumed that a single or double row of columns was put in place to support it. However, recent archaeological explorations found no evidence of these, and that the roof may have been self-supporting from the beginning?

Following the audio tour I walk up the stone steps at the opposite end of the hall and turn left into St Stephen’s Hall.

St Stephen’s Hall:
The hall was built to replace the chapel of the same name which was destroyed in 1864 due to a fire. The chapel was actually the original home of the House of Commons and beneath the hall the original undercroft of St Stephen’s chapel still survives. The hall was the creation of Charles Barry who decorated it with sculptures of famous parliamentarians and paintings of great events in British history.
Lined with seating it gives me a welcome pitstop in my tour on a fairly hot, stuffy summers day. This is also the last point at which you are permitted to take photos.

Exiting from this beautiful, corridor like space you then come to the Central Lobby.

The Central Lobby:
This is the very heart of the Palace of Westminster, acting as a crossroads between the two Houses and Westminster Hall allowing members of the House of Commons and the House of Lords to mingle and also serving as a meeting point where MPs can meet their constituents.
I’m happy to stand and take in the wonderful architecture. Designed once again by Charles Barry this area is octagonal in design, made of stone with an intricately tiled floor.
I love the feature that has been made of the four exits from the Lobby. Each has a large mosaic panel, depicting the patron saints of each of the four constituent countries of the United Kingdom: St George for England, St David for Wales, St Andrew for Scotland and St Patrick for Northern Ireland. The audio guide utilises this feature to ensure you follow the route in the correct order.

House of Lords:
This is the upper house of the Parliament of the UK and currently there are about 800 members who are eligible to take part in the work of the House of Lords. As the second chamber of the UK Parliament, the Lords play a vital role in examining future legislation, whilst also investigating public policy. They can challenge the government and hold the government accountable through debates and questions. With a broad range of expertise with members having successful careers in business, culture, science, sports, academia, law, education, health and public service, they can provide expertise in their given areas. 

Whilst Charles Barry designed the Palace of Westminster as a whole, Augustus Pugin supplied the detail and had the passion to deliver the complex gothic interiors that can be seen here today.
The House of Lords is full of red upholstery and looking around the chamber I cannot help but notice the large and majestic royal throne which stands at the far end on a raised platform. Designed upon the 14th century coronation chair in Westminster Abbey it is here that the monarch delivers the ‘speech from the throne’, which is written by the government, in the chamber during the State Opening of Parliament.

House of Commons:
Leaving the upper house behind the tour takes you back out to the central lobby and into the House of Commons. Suddenly the red upholstery has been replaced with green benches, a colour that has apparently been associated with this chamber for over 300 years.
The current Chamber was actually rebuilt after the World War 2 by the architect Sir Giles Gilbert Scott at a cost of some £2million and to be honest is rather austere and certainly of a more simple and plain Gothic design. I wonder if it is to remind the occupants of their status compared to the chamber next door?
Scott, to be fair, did introduce modern heating, lighting and ventilation and enlarged the galleries to provide more seats especially for the press and public. 

The audio guide explains the manner in which the Government works in the UK so hopefully visitors can leave with a better understanding of a system that stems back to its roots in Anglo Saxon times. The idea of the Commons meeting separately from the nobility and clergy began back in 1341.

Leaving the House of Commons behind I follow the defined route back to St Stephen’s Hall and thus back to the start of the tour. There are both a gift shop and cafe on site off Westminster Hall along with public toilets.

Bidding a farewell to this historic building at the centre of UK politics our London adventure comes to a close. I hope if you haven’t done so already you will have read my other posts about this adventure and if you have any comments or questions you would like to make/pose please feel free even it is advice about other things to do and see in London…..

 



Frameless: A New Era of Artistic Immersion

“Day 3 in London -Immersing Ourselves in Art” continues by leaving “Here East’ and the World Press Photographic Exhibition behind and heading back to the bus stop to jump back on the 388 bus towards Stratford City Bus Station. From here it is just a five minute walk to the underground where we pick up the Central Line. Heading towards West Ruislip we get out at Marble Arch and walk around the corner to the “Frameless Immersive Art Experience”.
We purchased our tickets on line and I have to be honest they are more expensive than we would normally pay for an alternative art exhibition but we wanted to try something new and this is certainly it!

Frameless is a unique and modern method of absorbing yourself in art. Classic pictures are brought to life by basically removing them from the confines of a frame and displaying them instead throughout the room in which you stand or sit. Every wall, the floor and sometimes the ceiling is a masterpiece in motion. By adopting this approach you are brought into the actual picture , it envelops you, surrounds you and connects you to the artist in a very unique and awe inspiring process.

This is the largest permanent, digital immersive experience of its kind in the UK. Using state of the art Panasonic projection alongside individually curated scores you are totally immersed into each piece of art.

The introduction from the curators says:

“This is a place where there are no white walls,
Where art seeps into every inch of space,
Surrounding and astounding all inside.
This is a place where art comes alive
Where it is free to run wild
Where it knows no bounds.
This is a place where you can climb inside,
Where you can be immersed in each spectacular scene,
Where you can find your place to wonder.
This is a place where there are no frames,
Where art is a world you can explore,
Where you can get closer to art than you’ve ever been before.”

There are four separate galleries:
“Beyond Reality”.
This is where we began our journey exploring great art works such as:
Edvard Munch “The Scream’, Max Ernst “The Fireside Angel” and Hieronymus Bosch “The Garden of Earthly Delights”.
Taking centre stage these and many more famous pieces from the 16th century right up to the 20th century swirl across the walls around you.
My favourite piece in here was Thomas Lowinsky’s The Dawn of Venus. It filled all four walls, plunging us as visitors into the depths of its ocean whilst immersing my feet on the seabed. Truly amazing!

I’ve not be able to upload my videos onto my post but they will be available from tomorrow on my instagram page
https://www.instagram.com/amidlifeadventure/
I have a couple of photos instead.

Colour in Motion:
This was the second room we entered where great masterpieces such as Monet’s “The Waterlily” are enhanced to the point that you can see every brushstroke up close and personal.
Van Gogh’s “Self Portrait” and “Starry Night over the Rhone” similarly amazed me.

In this room an added aspect comes into play -the idea of the pictures being triggered by the movement of the audience. Walk along the floor and the leaves move with you, it’s like rustling through the Autumn leaves on a woodland floor whilst being inside a magnificent piece of art. Again a video really shows this interaction on instagram.
I did capture a few photos as well:

The World Around Us:

Room three and here the creators have taken paintings from the 1st century BC up to the Impressionist Movement of the late 19th century to bring “life itself” into our view. Imagery such as:
Rembrandt’s “Christ in the Storm on the Sea of Galilee”, “Vesuvius in Eruption” by Joseph Wright of Derby and Canaletto’s “The Grand Canal” where the figures within the painting come to life. Sound is added to the experience so you can hear the oars as they go through the water and the chatter of the people on the canal side. Everything has been created to make you feel as if you living within each painting!

The Art of Abstraction:
The fourth and final room brings the visitor into a floating maze of colour, shape and form with the pioneers of abstract art.
If you have been reading my blog from the beginning you will know I struggle with this type of art.
https://amidlifeadventure.org/2023/03/07/opinion-modern-art/

Using cutting edge technology the pioneers of abstract art are brought to life in this room full of colour and light. Famous pieces of art from artists such as Piet Mondrian, Wassily Kandinsky and Paul Klee feature amongst the kaleidoscope of floating projections which respond to music so that each painting appears as a living, pulsating piece of art.

My Conclusion:
The Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan described this exhibition saying “Frameless will be a groundbreaking and hugely popular attraction in the West End demonstrating the constant innovation and creative energy of London.”
It is certainly very different and takes traditional art away from the walls of many an art gallery in order to make it an immersive and living experience thus opening it up to more people. It’s an experience that lends itself to children of all ages and including those with neurodiversity who might find a traditional gallery too enclosing and busy with visitors.
Expensive but worth a visit!

And so Day 3 comes to a close, one final day in London to bring you in my next and final post of this recent adventure.……………………………


Day 3 in London -Immersing Ourselves in Art

Having been up with the lark yesterday we decided to take things a bit slower today and with pre-bought tickets set off to visit two completely different art exhibitions that were on in the capital.
We began our journey by catching the 277 bus just outside the hotel towards Kingsland. Alighting at Stop N on Holcroft Road we then walked to Stop D and picked up the 388 heading towards Stratford City. This stopped directly outside “Here East” where our first exhibition was on display. I’ve included our journey details in order to hopefully give other visitors confidence to travel around London not just on the tube but also on the “big red London buses”. It’s easy to get your journey details on “Google Maps” or on the “Citymapper” app.
Payment is by card, buses are generally clean and services frequent and mostly on time. There is a display board within the bus and a commentary clearly indicating what the next stop is.

If you check out the website for “Here East” you will find a description of this fairly new area located in London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.
“Here East was designed from the outset to operate as a catalyst for change and a pillar of the post-Olympic East London community.

A dedicated campus, for innovators, disruptors, visionaries and locals to push their professional and personal boundaries; to surround themselves with some of the world’s most inspiring artists and performers; to build on the Olympics’ architectural and cultural legacy.

Already, 6,500-plus people call Here East home, and many more will follow… “

From the bust stop we walked down towards the canal and then branched left alongside a section of restaurants to reach the MPB Gallery

The World Press Photo Exhibition
This is an internationally acclaimed exhibition and as hubby is a keen photographer with photos displayed on “Flicker” –https://www.flickr.com/photos/amidlifeadventure/
and I also enjoy viewing photos at exhibitions this was a good choice for both of us.
Tickets vary in price depending upon the day of attendance but we bought and paid for our tickets on line in advance at £13.50 each.
As is normal in these circumstances we wandered around individually at our own pace.

Since 1955, the World Press Photo Foundation has connected the people to the stories that matter worldwide spending 70 years championing visual journalism. The World Press Photo Contest “is one of the most prestigious competitions in photojournalism and documentary photography, celebrating the most impactful visual storytelling from across the globe.”
It is a non-profit organisation that remains committed to press freedom and provides platforms to visually display the photographs that this powerful style of journalism produces. In 2024, the exhibition reached approximately 4 million visitors across 89 locations worldwide.


When you view the photos at this exhibition there is no doubt that they each have a story to tell but behind each lens is a photographic journalist often risking their life to record these images visually for the whole world to see. I have included this narrative from the exhibition to reflect what this actually means in the real world. Please read it…………………

The photos are powerful, thought-provoking and often spark an emotional response within you that you maybe didn’t expect to get from “just a photo”! Each photo tells a story and gives an insight into the real situation these people find themselves in. With a brief explanation of where and why each photo was taken by each respective journalist I’ve chosen my favourite three alongside the overall winner of the competition and included a question I’d like you to ask yourself?
I’m now going to let the photographs do the talking……………

Paths of Desperate Hope
Taken on September 23rd 2022 in the jungles of the Darian Gap

Luis Miguel Arias (28) takes a break with his daughter Melissa (4) as they climb a hill. They are from Venezuela and joined the over 250,000 migrants who traversed the Darien Gap in 2022.
The Darién Gap is a remote, roadless, and dangerous area of rainforest along the border between Panama and Colombia, acting as a natural barrier between North and South America. The lack of roads, the presence of dangerous animals and insects (including venomous snakes and spiders), and the risk of criminal activity (like robberies and violence) contribute to the region’s dangers. 


“Do you live in a safe country with your children? How desperate was this man to make this journey with his little girl?”

The Last Hope

Taken on June 25th 2024 in Merida, Venezuela

Venezuelan opposition leader María Corina Machado greets supporters atop a vehicle during a campaign rally for the opposition presidential candidate, Edmundo González Urrutia.

In 2023, María Corina Machado won the opposition primaries to challenge Nicolás Maduro in the presidential elections, but Venezuelan authorities subsequently barred her from running. As a result, she endorsed former ambassador Edmundo González Urrutia as the opposition’s candidate and led his political campaign across the country. After the election, authorities declared Maduro the winner, but the opposition contested the results, citing vote tallies that indicated a victory for González. Allegations of electoral irregularities led many countries to question the legitimacy of the outcome.

Although Maduro retained power and González was forced into exile, Machado remains in hiding as the leader of the opposition and a key figure advocating for political change.


Opposition leaders and some international organisations have labeled the Maduro government as a dictatorship due to its authoritarian actions and suppression of opposition. 
International bodies have criticised Venezuelan elections for not meeting international standards of fairness and transparency. 
There are ongoing concerns about human rights violations, including the suppression of protests and the imprisonment of political opponents. 

“Do you live in a country where democracy is real, where you can watch the votes coming in live on TV as they are counted? Could you live under a dictatorship that masks itself as a democratic country or would you leave?”

Beyond the Trenches

Taken on March 7th 2024 in Borshchivka, Ukraine.

Anhelina (6), who is traumatised and suffers panic attacks after having to flee her village, lies in bed in her new home.

Ongoing conflict in their home village near Kupiansk (a frontline city in Russia’s invasion of Ukraine) forced Anhelina’s family to seek refuge. She now lives with her grandmother, Larisa, in Borshchivka, 95 kms from Kupiansk, while her mother lives and works in Kharkiv, about an hour’s journey away.

The photographer wished to shed light on children who have grown up surrounded by violence, their innocence fractured but their spirit enduring as they adapt to a new life

As a result of heavy shelling and fighting in the Ukraine, 3.7 million people have been driven from their homes and are internally displaced and 6.9 million people have crossed into neighbouring countries in the region including Poland, Hungary, Moldova or other countries globally.

Do you live in a safe country? What would you do if suddenly your country became unsafe due to conflict, and your home was destroyed?

World Press Photo of the Year 2025

Taken on June 28th 2024 in Doha, Quater

Mahmoud Ajjour (9), who was injured during an Israeli attack on Gaza City in March 2024, finds refuge and medical help in Qatar.

As his family fled an Israeli assault, Mahmoud turned back to urge others onward. An explosion severed one of his arms and mutilated the other. The family were evacuated to Qatar where, after medical treatment, Mahmoud is learning to play games on his phone, write, and open doors with his feet.
Mahmoud’s dream is simple: he wants to get prosthetics and live his life as any other child. Children are disproportionately impacted by the war.

The UN estimates that by December 2024, Gaza had the highest number of child amputees per capita anywhere in the world.

The photographer, who is from Gaza and was herself evacuated in December 2023, lives in the same Doha apartment complex as Mahmoud. She has bonded with families there, and documented the few badly wounded Gazans who made it out for treatment.

This photographic exhibition had a huge effect on me and will remain at the MPB Gallery until August 25th. I urge you to go and look.


Conscious of not monopolising your time to read my post I will write about our second exhibition we visited that day entitled “Frameless” in the next couple of days……………